I often take for granted how close the Middle East is to London. Especially coming from Australia, a 5-hour flight is a breeze 😂So keeping this in mind, I decided to take advantage of the 5 days I had off over New Years to visit the highlights of Israel and Palestine.
Read more: A self-guided walking tour of Banksy artwork in Bethlehem (day-trip from Jerusalem)
Day 1: Airport to Jerusalem
I flew out of London after work on Friday and arrived Saturday morning at Tel Aiv Airport. If you arrive Sunday-Friday you can catch the 485 bus from the airport to Jerusalem for 18 NIS. As I arrived on a Saturday (the Sabbath) buses weren’t running. An easy alternative is to catch a sherut. These are 10 seater mini-vans that sit outside of the airport. Once a van is full they depart for your destination. It costs 67 NIS and they will drop you at your accommodation. Both the buses and the sherut’s operate 24-hours a day.
I arrived at the airport at 8AM, was in the sherut at 10AM (long lines at security) and at my hotel by 11AM. After unpacking and resting after an overnight flight I began exploring Jerusalem. (I ended up revisiting all the sites the following day as part of the walking tour detailed below, so if you are tired and need to rest, you have plenty of time!).
Note: As I arrived on the Sabbath all the restaurants and grocery stores near my accommodation were closed. Head to the Muslim Quarter of the Old City of Jerusalem for lunch or dinner – I recommend Abu Shukri for hummus and falafel!
Day 2: Jerusalem
If you want to get Dome of the Rock without the crowds you have to visit early in the morning. I was lined up to enter Dome of the Rock at 7AM to get sunrise shots. Follow this link for 5 things to know before visiting Dome of the Rock (dress code, opening hours, photography tips etc). After this I went to Jafar Sweets for a “dessert breakfast” 😂The Baklava was incredible but OMG… the Kanafeh?! I am hooked. I proceeded to have Kanafeh every day of my trip!
I think it’s important to do a walking tour during your time in Jerusalem, wandering the city without context does not do it justice. There are free Sandman Walking Tours that depart at 11AM and 2PM every day from Jaffa Gate. I chose to do a paid in-depth 4-hour Holy City Tour (£26) and thoroughly enjoyed it. Must see’s (that visit during the Holy City Tour tour) include:
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Dome of the Rock
5 things to know before visiting Dome of the Rock
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Western Wall
Once you are through security you make your way toward the wall (men go left, women go right).
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Church of the Holy Sepulchre
Christians believe the Church is built on the traditional site of Jesus’ crucifixion and burial. Even if you aren’t religious it’s an impressive monument to visit.
Stops that aren’t included in the tour that I would add to your itinerary include:
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Stations of the Cross
I did a quick Google and copied the Wikipedia page to my notes before I left my hotel so I could read about the stations as I’d come across them. They are all found on the street Via Dolorosa. Below is the second station of the cross where I was photobombed by a furry friend.
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Damascus Gate
I took this photo on my way to Dome of the Rock in the morning so I could get a shot without people.
That night I had dinner at Mahane Yehuda Market. Filled with craft breweries, gourmet burger joints, sushi trains and bars – this is where you will find all the young locals of Jerusalem. Check out my Israel Palestine Highlights Insta-Story for my videos from the night!
Day 3: Bethlehem, Palestine
On Day 3 I took a bus from outside Damascus Gate and crossed the border into Palestine. I wanted to do a day trip to see several original Banksy artworks and the Church of Nativity. Full article on how to do a self-guided walking tour of Bethlehem (with bus information, maps and exact addresses) can be found here.
On return to Jerusalem, I caught a sherut back to Tel Aviv. The ride takes 1 hour and will cost you 33 NIS. You could definitely choose to leave the following morning but it was New Year’s Eve and I wanted to celebrate on Rothschild Boulevard!
Day 4: Tel Aviv
Tel Aviv Itinerary:
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Rothschild Boulevard
This street is the heart of Tel Aviv, it’s where you’ll find all the coolest bars and restaurants and my favourite brunch spot – Benedict Cafe. It was the perfect start to the day (post NYE hangover). I recommend the shakshuka or eggs royale!
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Carmel Market
Next up I wandered Carmel Market which had the most beautiful handmade artwork. If it wasn’t for the fact I can’t travel with stuff, I would have definitely made some purchases.
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Tel Aviv Promenade and Beaches
The third destination of the day was Tel Aviv’s iconic promonade and beaches. I made my way from Geula Beach (most southern) to Gordon (the northern beach). At a leisurely pace, it took no more than half an hour.
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XoHo Cafe
For lunch I stopped at one of Tel Aviv’s best known cafes. It’s also conviently only a 6-minute walk from Gordon Beach. While a little on the pricey side (compared to Jerusalem) the atmosphere is great and the food was amazing.
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Jaffa Old City
Finally, I did a free Sandmans Jaffa Old City Walking Tour which departed at 2PM. I found this really informative and interesting. The area near Jaffa Flea Market (Shuk Hapishpishim) is also filled with amazing street art to photograph.
Day 5: Dead Sea, Haifa or Masada
There are a lot of options for your final day in Israel. As I had already visited the Dead Sea as part of my trip to Jordan I decided against visiting again, but this is a popular option to combine with a visit to Masada(similar to Wadi Rum, Jordan). Another great day trip is to Haifa. Personally, I decided to soak up the sun and spend my final day on the beach. I flew out that night 🙂
I hope you found this helpful and if you have any questions, comment below or swing me a message on Instagram.
Read more: A self-guided Banksy day-tour of Bethlehem from Jerusalem
